Imagine a scene where the air is filled with the tantalizing aroma of slow-cooked meat mingling with the scents of fresh herbs, beans, and onions—that's the essence of a bustling kitchen at Testaccio market. It’s a little past 10:30 AM, and from box 37, the fragrant steam wafts out, inviting passersby to take a closer look. Inside this cozy nook, you'll find Leonardo Cioni, a tall chef hailing from San Giovanni Valdarno, which lies between Florence and Arezzo. For over three years, he has been captivating patrons with his culinary creations at Sicché Roba Toscana, a name that roughly translates to "therefore Tuscan stuff." The enticing steam serves as an excellent advertisement, drawing curious eyes towards the blackboard menu hanging above the counter, revealing the delicious offerings within.
Among the delights consistently featured is lampredotto, a dish made from the fourth stomach of the cow. Known for its tenderness, this particular tripe resembles a damp dishcloth with a ruffled appearance. It’s cooked slowly in a broth infused with onion, carrot, celery, tomatoes, parsley, and basil for about an hour and a half until it’s perfectly seasoned with salt and pepper. Often served in a roll, it's sometimes topped with a dollop of vibrant salsa verde. Alongside this, Leonardo prepares trays of torta di ceci, a delightful baked pancake made from chickpea flour, similar to farinata. This savory treat is usually served in a flatbread known as schiaccia, which can also be filled with various cured meats or cheeses. While the rest of the menu shifts daily, it reliably includes a hearty bean dish, a comforting soup made from legumes and vegetables (often thickened with polenta or bread), and a long-braised stew or ragu.
It was the enticing aroma of ragu di capocollo that first caught my attention a couple of months ago—so much so that we, who perhaps should have grown out of our youthful exuberance, found ourselves returning an hour and a half later. We eagerly settled at the colorful tiled counter to savor this dish, which was rich, flavorful, and served atop small potato gnocchi.
Capocollo, often referred to as pork neck or collar, is sourced from the upper shoulder of the pig, an area blessed with a generous marbling of fat. This mix of tender meat and fat offers the ragu its remarkable flavor and richness, allowing it to harmonize beautifully with the robust flavors of bay, sage, and rosemary. What impressed me most about Leonardo’s version was his choice to use minced capocollo instead of braising a whole cut and shredding it, a method that certainly has its merits but doesn’t provide quite the same texture. For those looking to experiment, consider blending leaner cuts with back bacon, but remember, a good amount of fat is essential for achieving that succulent mouthfeel.
Pork Ragu with Herbs (For Gnocchi or Pasta)
Serves 4
- 400g pork mince (ideally well-marbled, such as neck, shoulder, or jowl)
- 3-4 tablespoons olive oil
- 1 medium onion or three shallots, peeled and finely diced
- 2 bay leaves
- 2 sage leaves
- 2 sprigs of rosemary (one minced, one whole)
- Salt to taste
- 1 small glass dry white wine
- 400g tin crushed plum tomatoes (or passed through a food mill)
- 1 tablespoon tomato concentrate
- 500g potato gnocchi or fresh pappardelle
- Grated parmesan or grana padano cheese for serving
To start, heat a heavy-based pan or casserole over medium-low heat and add the olive oil. Once hot, incorporate the minced pork and stir occasionally until it is no longer pink. Next, introduce the diced onion, bay leaves, sage, both minced and whole rosemary, along with a pinch of salt. Continue cooking and stirring until the onion becomes translucent, allowing the flavors to meld together.
After that, pour in the white wine and let it bubble for a minute or two before adding the tinned tomatoes, tomato concentrate, another pinch of salt, and a small glass of warm water. Cover the pan partially with a lid, reduce the heat, and allow the ragu to simmer gently for about two hours. Remember to check and stir it occasionally, adding more warm water if it appears too dry. By the end of the cooking time, the ragu should have a rich, dense texture with a glossy, oily halo.
Meanwhile, cook the gnocchi (or pasta) in a large pot of boiling water seasoned with plenty of salt. Once cooked, transfer to a warm bowl. Mix in a spoonful of finely grated parmesan or grana padano, then add half of the ragu and toss everything together. Portion the mixture onto four plates or shallow bowls, topping each with additional ragu and more cheese if desired.
But here's where it gets interesting: how do you like your ragu? Everyone has their own preferences when it comes to sauces and pasta pairings, and some might even argue about the best ways to prepare this classic dish. Do you think there's room for innovation in traditional recipes, or do you believe they should remain unchanged? Share your thoughts in the comments!
